Topwater Caranx Ignobilis: Giant Trevally (GT) > Tackle & Techniques
Home made stickbaits
Angus Hulme:
Hey Andrew, they look fantastic. The Coral Trout pattern is an interesting one: do you think little trout regularly feature in the diet of GTs? I would never have even thought of the possibility, but I suppose GTs are opportunistic feeders, so maybe you're right.
Also, what clear finish are you using? Most of the guys on the 360tuna forum seem to use Envirotex epoxy, but I could never find any local supplies of the stuff here in Brisbane. I use a similar product called aristocrat, but it's obviously not designed for marine use, nor is it very durable coping with the crushing bites of GTs :-\
To demonstrate, you can see on the attached pic that in the case of my creations, the top clear coat tends to start flaking away after only a few fish....
Any suggestions?
Cheers
Angus
Andrew Susani:
Andrew, no I haven't started on the poppers yet... but it is going to happen soon. I want to speak to someone who has a lathe and get some tips for how to set myself up for it, and also what wood to use. These stickbaits are made from tassie oak and it is quite dense. I will probably start with pine for the poppers and see if I can get some cedar or birch later on. The lifespan of GT lures is such that it is a bit of a waste of time sourcing really fancy wood when I am confident with the durability and long lifespan of the epoxy coating.
Which brings me to Angus's question. Yes, I use envirotex lite and it is exceptional. I haven't put it to long term use on fish damage but we have hit rocks with these stickbaits and the finish is very damage resistant. Everyone who picks up the lures makes comment on how smooth they are.
I can't remember where I got it from but here is an Australian seller:
http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7_864
There are some tricks to using it... which I picked up from the 360tuna forum and also time spent using it:
* Mix it in small batches - I use a plastic disposable shot glass, held to the table with a bit of bluetac under the base. 4mL of total resin is enough for a thick coat on one of my lures.
* When mixing it, measure out accurately using plastic syringes - rod building ones are best. Avoid the black rubber plunger ones as they will react slightly with the epoxy and create little dimples in your finish.
* I use a decent quality 12mm paintbrush to paint it on, then squeeze out all the excess when I am done, and wash the brush in MEK.
* After the lure is varnished, I put it under spring tension in a small rotisserie to rotate for about 3 hours with a small ceramic heat lamp that keeps the lure at about 30 deg C. After 3 hours, you can hang it vertically without risk of the epoxy running.
* The coats dry to a 'barely tacky' finish after about 9 hours like this. If you don't use the heater, you will need to rotate them a bit longer and hang them for about 12 hours, depending how cold it is.
* The best time to apply a second coat is when the first one has just dried, otherwise you might have to rough it up a little with fine grade sandpaper. I have not bothered with this step on a few lures and have not noticed any delamination effects after prolonged use.
I highly recommend that 360tuna lure building forum, there are guys on there who produce the best quality finishes in the world and are happy to share information. ;D
Andrew Susani:
Oh and as far as the little trout pattern goes... not sure if the GTs eat them much, but I know we catch an awful lot of them if we fish plastics or bait on the reef, so they are very common... plus the pattern looks pretty cool 8)
I plan on giving it a good swim this weekend around some big coral formations and ledges so we shall see if it can work some magic for me ::)
Nathan Tsao:
Andrew, send to KONA!!!!haha
George Relf:
They look very professional Andrew. Well done.
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