Topwater Caranx Ignobilis: Giant Trevally (GT) > Tackle & Techniques
Popper rod recommendations
Dmitrii Novgorodtcev:
As for Hammer Head you can find specs here.
http://www.hammer-head.jp/frame.page.htm
just click Product, then Rod Line up, then Faube Series, then Faube 77H
But if you want to cast 140-180g, Faube 77M+ will be better choice than 77H. It is maximum 180g, but i used it with 180g poppers + ST76 5/0 trebles and the rod did not feel oversaturated. The maker says they tested it with 220g I-cups and PE12 and it was good.
Comparing with MH80H, Faube is much more easy to pop big cup chuggers, but not so good at casting. You have to apply more power to Faube to cast it well than you do with MH80H, but when you pop the chugger it is much more easy with Faube in comparison to MH80H.
Mark Harris:
Ah, that makes it easier Doug :)
Carpenter MH80H has become my single favourite popping rod and if I could own only one rod, this would be it. As Dmitiri alludes to it is a very good caster. It also has heaps of power down low, but due to the blank technology is remarkably easy on the body when you are into a big fish. I think its upper limit is a GT3 170 gram/Cubera 180 gram chugger, and it is absolutely sweet in the 140 to 160 range.
I only recently acquired its heavier cohort, MH79XH so I can't speak from so much personal experience on the water with this one. It is though noticeably stiffer tipped and it clearly has a sweet range that is a bit heavier than MH80H. Weight-wise it is comfortable and it casts very well for a shorter rod. I would probably class this as more of a PE10 rod and MH80H as more of a PE8 rod, although both are rated PE8-10.
On Hammerhead Faube, I have used 77M+ a bit as a friend owns one. I even caught a good 25 kg fish with it. It was a nice rod for working 150 gram GT3 and I am sure it would go heavier. Also light. But, and it's a big but for me, I found it hard to cast. Not just a factor of its length, it just seemed like a tough rod to cast well. I kind of put it in the Smith Komodo Dragon bracket for that reason.
Jon Li:
With GT fishing requires a lot casts using heavy lures nowaday , one needs to preserve stamina to subdue big GT when the strike eventually happens , a good rod should be balanced in ease of casting and at the same time has good action to counter every moves the fish make as well as giving the angler as much advantage to finish the fight in shortest possible time to ensure successfull CnR and hopefully the angler is still strong enough to do the cycle all over again until the next strike . Choose your rod carefully because once you bought a wrong one , it's not easy to get rid off at the reasonable asking price .
Jon .
Doug Mac:
A very good piece of advice Jon. Unfortunately down here in Victoria we do not get to see alot of the rods spoken about on this forum so consequently I am trying to make a short list of rods that I can try to track down and make my decision from there.
Currently from what Mark has said I would definitely like to have a look at both the MH rods (not sure where i will find them?) as they sound like they have the attributes I am looking for. The Hammer Head sounds OK but seems to loose out in the casting stakes , which is an important factor especially when the fish are a bit scarce. So currently I have the Carpenter Monster Hunters on my short list if any one else has some other suggestions I would be only to glad to hear them.
Doug
Mark Harris:
Doug forum sponsor Fishhead in Brisbane has both in stock: http://www.fishhead.com.au/store/categories/Rods/Carpenter/ . There are not too many knocking around so great that Fishhead has both.
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