Topwater Caranx Ignobilis: Giant Trevally (GT) > Tackle & Techniques
How to handle GTs - removing them from water, photographs and returning them
Brandon Khoo:
As many of you are aware, gtpopping.com promotes catch and release. That is one of the most important aspects of the sport which we promote. That said, catch and release is pointless unless fish are properly handled. It has become apparent to us that there is not quite the level of awareness around careful fish handling that we might have expected and this thread is intended to set out some key aspects of how you should handle GT.
Getting a GT out of the water
There are a number of implements used to assist anglers in getting a GT out of the water with the most common being gaffs, nets and Bogagrips. With a gaff, you must be careful how a fish is gaffed. The best (and in fact, only spot) to gaff a GT is through the lower jaw BUT extreme care must be taken to try to gaff the GT in the corner of the lower jaw and to ensure that the tongue is avoided. If you gaff the tongue, the fish will bleed to death.
Bogas are self explanatory as are nets. One further point to make here is that if it is a large fish, try to have a second person assist by getting their hands under the body while lifting the fish if possible.
Wetting areas in contact with the fish
Ensure that you wet or preferably soak your hands (or gloves), your clothing and particularly a hot deck if you intend to lie a fish on the deck. If you have a hose with running water, that is ideal. Anything that comes into contact with the fish should be wet.
How long can a fish be out of the water?
The best answer I can give you on this is don't remove the fish from the water unless you have to. These days, I generally ask the guide to release the fish in the water unless it is of a size that we want a photo. If we are going to remove the fish from the water for a photo, the photographer should be ready to take the snaps so the fish can be returned to the water as soon as possible.
A fish can stay out of water a bit longer if you have a running hose and you are able to flush the water through its mouth and out its gills but that still doesn't mean that a fish should be out of the water for five minutes.
Focus on trying to get the fish back into the water as soon as possible.
I will make the additional point that if a fish is absolutely exhausted, ask yourself the question on whether you should even remove it from the water and in fact, make sure you swim it before release. Your photograph is not worth killing a big fish over.
If you return a fish to the water and it floats back up to the surface, you must catch it as quickly as possibly, et a gaff or a Boga into its jaw and swim it behind a moving boat for as long as it takes for the fish to recover. You will know because it will start to kick its tail around.
Photographs
A fish should be properly supported for the purposes of taking photographs. This means the fish is held in a horizontal position with either your hands supporting the weight of the fish from underneath or the fish is resting on your knees. Whatever you do, avoid holding the fish in a vertical position with a gaff, especially if it is a big fish.
Be gentle
Finally, be gentle with the fish. Don't slam it on the deck and don't throw it back into the water side-on. A little bit of care goes a long way.
Happy fishing! If anyone else has any suggestions, please feel free to add them to this thread.
Nathan Tsao:
This past season we have been "dredging" the GTs out of very deep water with a variety of lures like the Carpenter Pandora and large casting spoons. We have been getting some big fish by letting the lures sink down close to the bottom in 80ft - 150ft of water.
When the fish come up from that deep they can have a hard time getting back down due to all the gas in their swim bladder. Usually the smaller and medium size GT come up pretty fast and you can see them "burp" the gas from their bladder; those fish swim back down just fine. It seems like the larger fish that take longer to bring up sometimes are not able to release the gas.
There are a few solutions to solve this problem and get the gas out. One involves a heavy gauge hyper-dermic needle inserted into the bladder, another involves literally squeezing the air out of them. Both of these methods can work but can be pretty damaging to the fish if not done properly. Perhaps the best solution to this is to use the deep water release system that bottomfish tagging programs use to "sink" tagged snapper and grouper back down to their depths.
The method involves a heavy lead weight about 2-3kilos that is fixed upon a heavy gauge wire (thicker than a clothes hanger). The wire comes straight up from the lead and is then looped a couple of times into a circle. This circle serves as a point to tie a long rope to, as well as for strength. The tag end of the wire is then bent back downwards at about a 150 degree angle. The tag end is then sharpened.
Once you are ready to release the fish, you punch the wire DOWNWARDS through the bottom lip and carefully place the fish in the water. Have your buddy hold the rope attached to the lead and slowly lower the fish down to the approximate depth at where you hooked it. At this point, you then simply pull the rope back upwards and the whole device will slide UP and OUT of the GTs bottom lip. Fish should now be successfully released at an adequate pressure where the bladder pressure is somewhat equalized.
Combine this with all the tips that Brandon stated above, and you have a winning combination for releasing deep water GT!
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Notice how your friend's arms are crossed (look more like boobs in my drawing) because you are releasing your 75kg GT and his knots have been failing all day.
Mark Harris:
Absolutely excellent thread Brandon.
A few points I would like to add:
1. Absolutely never pick up a fish by its tail. I see photos of GTs held that way even in this forum. This will damage its spine and it is likely the fish will die after release.
2. A de-hooking mat is a good idea. The fish will be much better off being laid on a clean, moistened soft mat than on a hard, often dirty, deck. You can easily make these yourself for almost no money from neoprene or the foam stuff that shoemakers use for the soles of sandals (thongs).
3. Do not over handle the fish and especially avoid putting your hands inside the gill plate. Gills are both easily damaged and infections are a worry.
Steve Li:
--- Quote from: Nathan Tsao on November 21, 2012, 06:25:03 PM ---This past season we have been "dredging" the GTs out of very deep water with a variety of lures like the Carpenter Pandora and large casting spoons. We have been getting some big fish by letting the lures sink down close to the bottom in 80ft - 150ft of water.
When the fish come up from that deep they can have a hard time getting back down due to all the gas in their swim bladder. Usually the smaller and medium size GT come up pretty fast and you can see them "burp" the gas from their bladder; those fish swim back down just fine. It seems like the larger fish that take longer to bring up sometimes are not able to release the gas.
There are a few solutions to solve this problem and get the gas out. One involves a heavy gauge hyper-dermic needle inserted into the bladder, another involves literally squeezing the air out of them. Both of these methods can work but can be pretty damaging to the fish if not done properly. Perhaps the best solution to this is to use the deep water release system that bottomfish tagging programs use to "sink" tagged snapper and grouper back down to their depths.
The method involves a heavy lead weight about 2-3kilos that is fixed upon a heavy gauge wire (thicker than a clothes hanger). The wire comes straight up from the lead and is then looped a couple of times into a circle. This circle serves as a point to tie a long rope to, as well as for strength. The tag end of the wire is then bent back downwards at about a 150 degree angle. The tag end is then sharpened.
Once you are ready to release the fish, you punch the wire DOWNWARDS through the bottom lip and carefully place the fish in the water. Have your buddy hold the rope attached to the lead and slowly lower the fish down to the approximate depth at where you hooked it. At this point, you then simply pull the rope back upwards and the whole device will slide UP and OUT of the GTs bottom lip. Fish should now be successfully released at an adequate pressure where the bladder pressure is somewhat equalized.
Combine this with all the tips that Brandon stated above, and you have a winning combination for releasing deep water GT!
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Notice how your friend's arms are crossed (look more like boobs in my drawing) because you are releasing your 75kg GT and his knots have been failing all day.
--- End quote ---
The illustrations are hilarious!!! You're an artist Nathan! ;)
One of the more prominent charters in Maldives are using it and I think its a great idea! Definately beats shoving a needle in the fish......
David Noble:
Thanks Brandon,
It's not worth seeing a fish knocked around or returned in bad condition. As you mentioned managing damage to the fishes slimey protective coating by only coming in contact with wet surfaces is particularly important. Recaptures have found lesions or 'burns' having developed on fish that have had this barrier removed.
Cheers David
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