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Topwater Caranx Ignobilis: Giant Trevally (GT) => Tackle & Techniques => Topic started by: Andrew Poulos on February 01, 2009, 08:27:25 PM
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Hi all,
Just wondering for those who have a GT special, is your rod to handle connection quite a tight fit and you need to twist it off, or is it quite easily removed once it moves a bit?
Mine isnt as tight as my 10-15kg tcurve or the saltiga dorado and Im wondering if thats normal...
cheers
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Hi There I had a bit of a problem with mine while fishing in Vanuatu in November last year.After a couple of days fishing it would not come apart or even twist around.Was preparing to cut it in half in order to get it back in in the rod tube for the journey home,but thanks to an Aussie guy on the charter who had the bright idea of packing ice around the joint it came apart quite easily.I blamed the heat & humidity.Has never done it since.Cheers Michael.
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Thats happened to some of my other rods when they have been in the sun and heat, I have to ice wrap them to get them apart.
How easy does your come apart when at home and hasnt been used ? Is it a tight fit and you need to twist hard to get off or reasonably easy?
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how loose is it, Andrew?
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Hi No problems when using the rod at home chasing kingis.It is a reasonably tight fit but comes apart easily enough & I normally put some joint wax on the sections.Must be the heat that does it as it has not happened since.
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Hard to describe. I dont have to twist it like I do with my normal t curve or dorado so it s small twist and pull out. You dont need to forefully pull it apart.
I rang shimano and they confirmed that its meant to be easier than on the old t curves and that there wont be an issue when casting as the rod will be under load and that prevents it flying out.
Just wasnt sure how tight a fit it should be.
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Hi No problems when using the rod at home chasing kingis.It is a reasonably tight fit but comes apart easily enough & I normally put some joint wax on the sections.Must be the heat that does it as it has not happened since.
Cheers Michael. I think its right going by what you said as well .Might test another out in a store too.
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you won't find joint wax here but you can get away with using a candle - just apply it very lightly
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It's best to avoid twisting as much as possible because you will wear down the join, eventually creating a loose fitting - which is definitely not good and can lead to rod failure. A snug connection is adequate as long as the blank does not move too easily during the fight or cast. Warmth and humidity will cause both sections of the join to expand leading to near impossible removal. Cool the rod down thoroughly for at least an hour and cover the join with a little bit of water before attempting to dismantle the join.
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The First Gt Special I had was too loose, (like that when I bought it), so much so that it twisted when I was popping.
I returned the rod and it was replaced with the up-dated model which doesn't have any probs at all and I much prefer it than the previous model. (Lighter, no gimble, prefer the action and a slimer front grip) I love it.
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At the moment mine is so tight I can't get it apart. They must vary from rod to rod? Also mine does not slide in the full length of the section that is supposed to slide in - warwicks will join up to the small bump at the top on the top section, mine stops maybe 10mm from the bump (if you look at the rod you'll be able to see what I was trying to describe but ended up butchering :D)
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I found all my t-curves including the GT were tight and didn't fully couple as Travis says Waricks does. I rubbed the top section back lightly with some wet and dry until they all fully engage. They don't twist while using but they do come appart easy now.
Could be a different story if I ever move south to a cooler drier climate (not that that will ever happen)
Slads
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Travis is right about cooling things down.
I once had this problem with a couple of joints of a Shimano Travel Boat Rod I was using to fish for cod in Norway. The local guy I was fishing with insisted I put the stuck joints in the chest freezer. They came apart with minimal pressure after half an hour.
Not much use as a tip for dismantling longer sections - unless you have a massive chest or walk-in freezer!
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I found all my t-curves including the GT were tight and didn't fully couple as Travis says Waricks does. I rubbed the top section back lightly with some wet and dry until they all fully engage. They don't twist while using but they do come appart easy now.
Could be a different story if I ever move south to a cooler drier climate (not that that will ever happen)
Slads
Such modifications are not always necessary. Many rods (even Carpenters, Fishermans etc.) do not fully 'seat' and work 100% fine. Just something to keep in mind.
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I keep my rods apart all the time.
Even when away I will use the rod for the day then come home and pull it apart till the next day.
Saves any dramas. 8)
Pete
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I have had the problem of getting T-curves apart in hot conditions, and have subsequently found that applying a bit of Graphite powder to the base of the rod(or into the handle section carefully) section improves the way they slide in & out. I have not found that this causes them to move or slip under load or casting.
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I had these problem too for some rods but , try too add some tooth paste on those joint while setting , when detaching those rods apart have problem ( hard to detach ) , dip them on fresh water for a while then try to detach, I hope this trick work well..
regards