Does a long bimimi double result in more wind knots?

[Brandon Khoo]

I've been experimenting with this for a little while now and would be interested in the experience of others. For me, I normally tie a very short bimimi double to attach to a twisted leader. I in fact try to make this segment as short as I can and this is usually about six inches in length.

When tying bimimis quickly however, I have found it much easier to tie a long doubled section. This is using the method whereby you loop it first around your feet and then around your knees. By spreading your knees, you automatically do the wind back section so you can then finish it with half hitches or a rizzuto (thank Mark) as I learned yesterday. I can tie one of these within a couple of minutes whereas a short bimimi (assuming 50 - 70 turns) takes me five minutes as it is very hard to do it this way. The reason why is that I have to manually wind back a short bimimi by hand.

The problem with a long doubled section is that I believe it increases the possibility of the loop catching on the guides (especially the first guide) when you're casting. With a short bimimi, I very rarely have wind knots (and can I say that the terms should be "wind' as in "winding", not what causes a breeze) whereas I have found that with the long bimimi, I definitely get more wind knots.

Interested on the observations of others.......

[Andrew Poulos]

I only use short biminis..I found with longer ones sometimes the leg of one would be more likely to also catch the joining knot if it was something like an albright. But havent tried long bimini with a twisted leader to see if it opens up and catchs on the guide.

Once thing I saw in a NZ mag recently was that a stiff piece of mono or wire was made into a loop and taped to the rod under the stripper guide. The loop had to be slightly larger than the inside of the guide and it sat  from lower down the rod moving up towards the guide. Then any spare coils etc that came off the spool were not able to catch the guide. I can scan a picture of this...something like that might allow for a longer double.

[Brandon Khoo]

Andrew - can you scan it? I'd be interested to see what it looks like

[Andrew Poulos]

heres the pic

[Luke Wyrsta]

I prefer to use a Bimini that is no more than 2/3 inches in length. It can be tied in less than 2 minutes easily with practice. I see no advantage in a longer Bimini (willing to be enlightened). The double is only formed to allow for a loop-to-loop connection and to keep the line as close to 100% BS as possible, you would also be silly to 'leader' the fish with the double too - shock leader is much better for that IMO.

[Luke Wyrsta]

I only use short biminis..I found with longer ones sometimes the leg of one would be more likely to also catch the joining knot if it was something like an albright. But havent tried long bimini with a twisted leader to see if it opens up and catchs on the guide.

Once thing I saw in a NZ mag recently was that a stiff piece of mono or wire was made into a loop and taped to the rod under the stripper guide. The loop had to be slightly larger than the inside of the guide and it sat  from lower down the rod moving up towards the guide. Then any spare coils etc that came off the spool were not able to catch the guide. I can scan a picture of this...something like that might allow for a longer double.

Andrew, i like the concept and am not doubting that it could work.

Just playing devil's advocate here - would this play any role in decreasing casting distance? Afterall, since it's purpose is to provide a 'barrier', then it could possibly also provide undesirable resistance due to it's position (anlged closer in and lower than the guide). What would stop wind knots being forming on the mono?

[Andrew Poulos]

In theory it shouldn't decrease any distance as the line should not be hitting it unless a loose coil came out off the spool.Its made from stainless steel wire, and the sides of the wire must not be smaller than the inside diameter of the line guide. The author seems to be pretty happy with it so far , and he uses if for surfcasting with big snapper leads.
The pic in the mag is better but it seems to form a ramp from the blank up to the guide,so there is no where really for the line to get caught on it.

[Brandon Khoo]

aaarrgghh!! I forgot I can't see a damn thing on my apple. So much for asking you to post a picture!!

[Andrew Poulos]

Just emailed it through to you....

[Neil]

What you need to tie, Brandon, is a finger bimini, this requires a flexible body or better still a hook or cleat to loop bimini over. Then you simply put a finger in the bimini loop and compress the knot tight up against the finger and hook together and finish the knot normally. This should result in a bimini around 100 to 150mm depending on number of turns.

Long bimini's can and will result in tangles at stripper, often times this is caused by the bimini loops splitting around the guide. Next time it happens, try and carefully unpick the knot to get to the root of the cause and check for yourself, it's quite revealing.

Neil

[Brandon Khoo]

thanks Neil. Something else for me to practice tonight! I think you've confirmed my concerns re the long bimimi double.

[Greg Burt]

Neil, do you tighten the knot from the rod end rather than the loop end.

[Greg Burt]

[Brandon Khoo]

Greg - I think what you are referring to is what they term to be a contrary attachment of the stripper guide. This is where the two legs of a MNSG guide point towards the tip rather than the handle. This is supposed to reduce wind knots but it doesn't stop them. All Japanese popping rods are now made this way. I also notice that nearly all local rod makers are doing this as well now.

[Greg Burt]