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Topwater Caranx Ignobilis: Giant Trevally (GT) => Tackle & Techniques => Topic started by: Robert Tapert on July 10, 2011, 09:08:38 AM
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Hi
A newbie question. From reading old post I see that there are ways to stop just from setting in once a barb is removed from a hook. Has this withstood the test of time? Is there recommended way to remove the barb from sj 41's without opening the hook up to rapidly rusting? The bard won't crush down by the means I do the owner ST 66's. Also on st 76 5/0's is it ideal to crush or file down the barb? In other hook applications I have found that filing off barbs speeds along the rust process even when rinsed in fresh water.
thanks
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Hi Robert - I use a dremel usually to sand the barb off. You're right in that it does speed up the rust process. To help with this I generally remove barb, sharpen tip and then use a permanent marker to "paint" the bare surfaces. Doesn't stop it but helps.
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Thanks Travis
Does the black permanent Marker actually seal the "wound" so to speak? I thought there was another product I was't familiar with. Also I have never removed the barb from those pre sharpened hook like a SJ 41, can they be resharpened and honed with a file or grinder??
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Hi Robert, i think it does seal it pretty well, the oil based markers seem to work even better. It will wear though and I wash my hooks and give a spray of inox after each trip. You can touch up the pen work then also. That said i'll often be lazy after a big trip and forget to do it and man, they do rust up pretty quick.
Yeah absoultely the hooks can be touched up - when i was using SJ51's i used to dremel the "wings" of the apparent cutting tip off to give a finer guage hook. I also can't help but touch up the point of even new hooks if i'm debarbing them - need to be careful though as while there is some sharpness to be gained it only takes a small slip take the tip right off and it can be a lot of work to get it back even close to what it was like coming out of the packet. I also carry a small stone to touch up the tips of hooks on a trip just in case they dull or get knocked.
Not sure on the other solution you have in mind, I think the bill fishers use a type of tape that has like a sacraficial anode type effect so that their hooks don't dull while being trolled around all day - too cumbersome a solution for GT lures though.
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Robert, you can buy the ST66 in a barbless model with the BL name.
As for singles, try some nail polish (single hooks that is......not single fisherman.......although I hear that works too in some areas)!
If you don't want your hooks looking a little gay........ you can get 'clear' nail polish!
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Rob
There is a product I have used it is a rust conversion paint, it bring rusted metal back. If you apply this as soon as you demel the barbs apply a couple of coats on, this will turn the hook black and will be just like you got it out of the packet. :)
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In regards to the tape that Travis mantioned, Owner make a tape that is recommended for SJ41 and SJ51 hooks. You can check it out on the link below.
http://www.purefishing.com.au/accessories/owner-accessories/rust-stop/rust-stop/ (http://www.purefishing.com.au/accessories/owner-accessories/rust-stop/rust-stop/)
Hope it helps
Kev
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In regards to the tape that Travis mantioned, Owner make a tape that is recommended for SJ41 and SJ51 hooks. You can check it out on the link below.
http://www.purefishing.com.au/accessories/owner-accessories/rust-stop/rust-stop/ (http://www.purefishing.com.au/accessories/owner-accessories/rust-stop/rust-stop/)
Hope it helps
Kev
First time i've actually seen it, looks pretty low key and practical to me, be interesting to try.
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thanks Kevin
This might come in handly for many types of fishing.
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I use it on all hooks except Stainless steel, it works wonders on chemically sharpened hooks for keeping sharp points in trolling.
Cut off long thin self adhesive strips to wrap around the shank which keeps it all neat, you get four to five strips out of each small section.