Knotless braid (hollow) to leader connection

[Dan Wulf]

I've used 170lb mono spliced into 130lb Hollow JB on several trips. No problem there; however as mentioned here a very tight serve is crucial. I use a Beiter Winder Server (a bow string server) with 20 or 30 lb braid for the serve and a tension/load of 2 x 5 kg on the leader when making the serve.

[Dustin Foo]

This connection is quite commonly used in gamefishing to join monofilament topshots to backing and also to create wind-on leaders.  I use a lighter to round off the end of monofilament. Press the end gently with your fingertip after it has been flambeaued to get a nice round point.  I've threaded a fair bit of 130 lb mono into 130 lb dacron over the years as well as up to roughly 2.6mm mono leader into 200 lb dacron, and the lighter you go the more fiddly it can get.  I use a hollow splicing needle (mine came from Basil but they are available at Wellsys, I think) for certain jobs and it really does help. 

I finish the knot with waxed bait rigging floss cinched down in a series of half-hitches, with the connection under a good amount of tension. I like the extra security of multiple half-hitches over a binding/serving, but the latter is clearly more streamlined which would be very desirable when casting.  It's possible to split certain brands of bait rigging floss lengthwise: a series of half-hitches made with the thinner strands that you get this way could possibly be sleek enough. 

I normally run the mono at least 3 feet up into the dacron, probably closer to 4 feet for 130 lb line.  I'm not sure how short you can get away with. 

[Robert Tapert]

The easiest  way  with  heavier leaders such  as 200 or even 300 lb mono leader is to use 200 lb hollow core.  Take a 2 meter long piece of 200 lb hollow core and run 2 feet of mono up  into it. Then serve the mono in place.  Then splice the 200 lb hollow core into the hollow 130.  the splice is seamless and strong as the original hollow core.

They  do  this on all the CA long range boat.  Basil at BHPtackle. com  has diagrams on how to do this.  He will make leaders to  your specifications.  As someone mentioned. the serve needs to  be very  tight but that  is really  the only  weak link in an otherwise simple system. 

But it is hard to argue with  that  FG knot when properly  tied.

[Bernie Keys]

I've made lots of windons for game fishing and a few "double enders" for casting, mainly on lighter mono mainline. Windons work  the other way round but its exactly the same principle. Double enders have 2 joints, one on the main line & one on the leader. The main & leader actually touch end to end if you do it right.

The serve is the weakest point but it does not have to be that tight. The hollow line "grips" the leader material because the weave "contracts" and the more force you put on it the more it contracts.

To get an idea of how little tension is actually required set up an incomplete leader/hollow braid without the serve and hold the serve area lightly between thumb & forefinger. Get someone to put serious tension on and you will see it will not slip. If it does then the leader is too thin or the braid too thick. The ideal setup as far as thickness goes is to have the leader close to the maximum diameter that will fit up the braid.

However if you push on the serve it may slip, so the weave no longer contracts under load. Pushing on the serve may happen as it hits a rod guide, or a rock ledge or obstruction out on the water.
When the serve is going through the tip guide under high tension (start of the cast) is when the serve is pushed so has exactly the wrong sort of tension on it. If it starts to slip at this point you will see the lure sail majestically into the air trailing the leader with a few feet of mainline hanging limply at the end of your rod, and you with the stunned mullet look on your face

It can also be a problem when handling the leader at the boat. You have to be aware of how it functions and handle accordingly. You can't let the leader slip through your hands so the fish drags the serve through your hands. 

Its a good idea to roughen up the end of the flouro or nylon for the length of the serve, so even if it (the serve)  loosens there will still be enough friction for the weave to contract.

What I do with the windons is to cover the area to be served with super glue and serve over the top. This makes a slightly stiff joint but with roller guides it does not matter. You will have to get superglue that will stick to the dyneama (or dacron) & flouro so it may take some shopping around. The same goes with casting as the pull should be nearly straight through the guides during this part of the cast. You can get special sticky stuff but I have never bothered. 

If you are a bit paranoid, then put the whole joint under tension & put another serve 12 inches or so from the first. It should not be necessary & the purist will say it actually defeats the purpose of the first serve but it does take the pressure off the serve.