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Jon Li

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Andy ,

I wud call well known agents of bearing manufacturers such as Timken , SKF , NSK , Koyo , and ask for AISI304 bearings , just tell them the dimensions and I am sure they will have the bearing you need . Another avenue is look at Boca bearing ( http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-applications/fishing-reel-bearings )  or Mike Reel Repair ( http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/reel-tuning-upgrades-c-47.html ) , hope this helps .

Jon .
It's not what you don't know that gets you into trouble , it's what you know for sure that ain't so . Mark Twain .

Rob Langridge

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G'Day All

I was laughed at by a couple of friends when i told them i applied pure lanolin on my line roller bearing and handle bearings. Well that was almost over 18 months ago now and there still rolling along and as good as new. I have reapplied the lanolin three times in that 18 months. I applied the pure lanolin to the bearings like you would apply drag grease to a drag washers just a light layer. In the winter you notice the bearings are not really free rolling because lanolin is like a wax in cold weather but once you start working the reel it free up.

On reading about lanolin a long time ago and with my way of thinking i had to give it a go and so far so good. The paragraph below is what gave me the hint to give it ago.

Lanolin is also used in lubricants, as a base for cosmetics, in rust prevention products, and in products designed to provide waterproofing. What works for sheep also works for things like boots and coats, and a layer of this wax can be a very effective waterproofing which will also allow the material to breathe, and keep the material supple and flexible. Flexibility can be key with waterproofing products, as it reduces the risk that the material will crack after being treated to waterproof it.
Last Edit: January 19, 2013, 09:47:09 AM by Rob Langridge
Cheers,
Rob

dante green

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I don't have the guts to open up the handle.  Could someone kindly post the breakdown of it through images? Pleeeeease?!?


cheers

D.
Last Edit: January 19, 2013, 01:29:59 AM by dante green

Saltywater Tackle

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We have the bearing in stock and we serviced around 10 handle so far,
please email us and we will sort it out for you.

  Tight lines
    Sami

Rob Langridge

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The Shimano handles and Dogfight get the same regular treatment - i.e. no stripping but a wash and spray with a spot of WD40 after each use.

WD40 would have to be the worst thing you could put on a spinning reel. I thought that was common knowledge amongst fisherman.
Cheers,
Rob

Mark Harris

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WD40 would have to be the worst thing you could put on a spinning reel. I thought that was common knowledge amongst fisherman.

Hey Rob,

Not so common for me to know nor indeed seemingly for any other GTPopping members as that post has been there for more than a month  ;).  And I am sure there are many worse things to put on spinning reel.

Never use WD40 on internal parts as it dissolves grease, but for external spot spraying as I described, it does a good job.
Last Edit: January 19, 2013, 11:58:11 AM by Mark Harris

Rob Langridge

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I think Lanox would be a lot better than WD40 as it is a anti-corrosion lubricant with lanolin. Just ask the kiwi's about lanolin. Ask why they have such soft hands and most will tell you  ''we get soft hands from grabbing our sheep by the flanks to put their back legs in our gum boots'' and then ask why they put their back legs in they're gum boots. The answer will be  ''so they don't run away''

Lanox: http://www.ppc.au.com/access_lanox2d.htm
Last Edit: January 19, 2013, 12:47:50 PM by Rob Langridge
Cheers,
Rob

Clem Henry

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I'll put the callipers on the bearings and let you know the size's...Its a very simple handle to maintain - Due to its design its actually difficulty to recognize when the bearing has failed due to its close tolerence on the shaft.

This is a pic of one I did the other day, water gets in primarily through the cap and then sits in there slowly corroding the bearing. As you can see to the point where the retainer has come off and the actual balls come out.



This is probably the 3rd or 4th one that I have seen like this...Removing the inner parts of the bearing is easy, the main problem is removing the outer ring which by now has corroded and stuck fast to the knob, had to dremel this one out.



I would suggest when NEW, that you dissasemble the knob by removing the top cap and remove the screw as seen in the pic - this will allow you to remove the knob from the shaft, coat the shaft with grease and replace the knob. Once that is done simply add grease to the inside of the knob and the top of the screw head..put as much as you want. Finally add grease to the thread of the cap to provide a better seal.

Every now and then just remove the cap and check its all ok...The flatter knob they sell has less issues.

Mark Harris

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I have just purchased two MC Works knobs so this advice is invaluable Clem - thanks so much. Seems like it would be wise to open the knob and clean it after every just about use.

Do you think it is a design issue with water getting in easily rather than the quality of the bearing used?

One really nice feature of the Studio Ocean Mark knob is two O-rings which really protect both knob bearings from too much salt water. Had no corrosion issues at all with the SOM handle.
Last Edit: January 19, 2013, 06:38:38 PM by Mark Harris

Clem Henry

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Hi Mark,

The stock bearings are fine, just need to coat the internals to minimise potential damage. Water can actually enter at either end...seals are great but not usually 100% waterproof, especially not over an extended period of time.

If it was me, I would simply remove the cap and check them every so often...add a decent amount of lube and they should be fine. I use a shaped piece of plastic to remove the cap..just so it doesent scratch it.

The good thing with this design, is that if you do have a failure as in the pic the knob will still turn...a little rough but it will get you through a trip.

dante green

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Dang it!  I just stripped the screw that unlocks the knob :(  That screw is sooo fridgin tight!

Clem Henry

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Hey Dante,

Can you post a pic of the screw head? might be recoverable....

dante green

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Here ya go:


My camera sucks :(


cheers

D.

Clem Henry

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It looks ok..you need to choose a bit that fits the screw head well, dont rush it..I assume the handle is off the reel, spray the inside of the knob with a penertrant and set it aside for a few hours.

When you try again you need to apply significant downward pressure to the driver whilst you turn the handle...may need someone to assist. The downward pressure will minimise the chance of further stripping the screw head. Apply as much pressure as you can until it turns or until it feels like it is going to slip.

You may need to change the bit size depending on the pressure you can apply...the penertrant will help, just take you time with it and it should be fine.

 :)

dante green

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Thanks mate! ;)


cheers

D.