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Topwater Caranx Ignobilis: Giant Trevally (GT) => Tackle & Techniques => Topic started by: Brandon Khoo on October 09, 2011, 12:41:29 PM
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I regard the aftermarket handle from MC Works as easily the best on the market. While the handle may seem bulletproof, I have found that it requires regular maintenance. The maintenance is simple in that what you need to do is strip the handle assembly completely and ensure that all parts are properly washed, particularly the bearings. If you don't do this, the bearings are very susceptible to corrosion.
I have had the bearings on one of my handles rust to the point where they simply fell apart. Regular maintenance will ensure this doesn't occur.
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Just read this post and rushed out to the studio and took my two handles off their reels- Aggh . Great you brought this up , one handle the bearing nearest the shaft is rough and I think rusted but I can't get it out of the handle part , tried heat ,Inox,and ice. The other handle I just can't even undo the screw.
So it's a trip to the tackle shop ,Yeehaa.
Love the handles , have them on 8000 stellas and think they transform the reels.
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Hi Brandon ,
Good posting , thanks . I will have inform those who have bought the MC Works handles on this issue and will ask Mogi-san to make sure MC Works is told about this so they can change the bearings to the better quality ones .
Jon .
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thanks Jon
That would actually be a good idea. To be fair to MC Works, they may already be using top quality bearings.
All bearings would rust under those circumstances.
All I know is two of my handles are out of action till I can get replacement bearings.
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I would hope they use standard sized bearings to make that replacement an easy job.
Interestingly I have never had any knob bearing issues with the factory Shimano handles, but my Dogfight rusted out in a fashion that sounds similar to the MC Works experience. The Shimano handles and Dogfight get the same regular treatment - i.e. no stripping but a wash and spray with a spot of WD40 after each use.
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No, they do not!!!! :'(
I would hope they use standard sized bearings to make that replacement an easy job.
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No, they do not!!!! :'(
I would hope they use standard sized bearings to make that replacement an easy job.
Bad news ,where are you going to get new bearings from ,as I'm probably going to need some ?
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Guys ,
My old STL16000F n STL10000F both have had the stock bearings removed and changed to stainless steel bearings years ago , since then I lubricate them each time after a fishing trip and so far so good . The stock bearing of my Z4500 still turns freely but I treat them equally as I do with my old Stellas .
Jon .
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I've just changed one bearing in each handle I believe we've used JM ones, if that helps anyone else.
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Just opened my handle 3 weeks after its first use, anybody got a contact for the replacement bearings :-[ :-[
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Has this issue been resolved? Where can we get replacement bearings? Tried contacting MC Works directly with no response. It's a little (actually very) irritating that replacement bearings appear to be extremely difficult to obtain given how expensive these handles are!! I appreciate your help in advance.
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Brandon,
What do you use to properly give the bearings a wash?
cheers
D.
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I don't know if I am the right person to come to for advice looking at what happened to my handles :'(
I made the mistake of never opening up the knob as I simply assumed it would be ok. I was dreadfully wrong. The bearings inside the knob were so corroded they actually had to be drilled out. I put poor Wahyu at Global Tackle to a dreadful amount of work to get it all fixed.
What I will be doing in future is stripping the whole handle after every trip and spraying the bearings with Reel-X.
Mark, the replacement bearings are hell to get hold off. I managed to get Tak Otsuka into ordering them from Japan from MC Works. They were absurdly expensive. You'd think they were ZPI ceramic bearings at that price
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I now need to replace the bearing again in my mc handle. After replacing the first one and packing the area with grease the new bearing felt rough even before i used it. After only 2 trips with slight use and sufficient care the thing needs replacing again. Jon where do you locate stainless steel bearings in Jakarta, i may try to source locally while I order another from Tak. I think the replacement bearing was faulty to start with :(
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Andy, locally for you, it might be worth trying Aneka Raya Pancing. When I checked there once they had a multitude of bearings in stock. However, from previous posts in this thread it seems that MC Works used a non-standard bearing in the handle so you might struggle to find one. Best of luck.
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Andy ,
I wud call well known agents of bearing manufacturers such as Timken , SKF , NSK , Koyo , and ask for AISI304 bearings , just tell them the dimensions and I am sure they will have the bearing you need . Another avenue is look at Boca bearing ( http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-applications/fishing-reel-bearings ) or Mike Reel Repair ( http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/reel-tuning-upgrades-c-47.html ) , hope this helps .
Jon .
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G'Day All
I was laughed at by a couple of friends when i told them i applied pure lanolin on my line roller bearing and handle bearings. Well that was almost over 18 months ago now and there still rolling along and as good as new. I have reapplied the lanolin three times in that 18 months. I applied the pure lanolin to the bearings like you would apply drag grease to a drag washers just a light layer. In the winter you notice the bearings are not really free rolling because lanolin is like a wax in cold weather but once you start working the reel it free up.
On reading about lanolin a long time ago and with my way of thinking i had to give it a go and so far so good. The paragraph below is what gave me the hint to give it ago.
Lanolin is also used in lubricants, as a base for cosmetics, in rust prevention products, and in products designed to provide waterproofing. What works for sheep also works for things like boots and coats, and a layer of this wax can be a very effective waterproofing which will also allow the material to breathe, and keep the material supple and flexible. Flexibility can be key with waterproofing products, as it reduces the risk that the material will crack after being treated to waterproof it.
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I don't have the guts to open up the handle. Could someone kindly post the breakdown of it through images? Pleeeeease?!?
cheers
D.
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We have the bearing in stock and we serviced around 10 handle so far,
please email us and we will sort it out for you.
Tight lines
Sami
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The Shimano handles and Dogfight get the same regular treatment - i.e. no stripping but a wash and spray with a spot of WD40 after each use.
WD40 would have to be the worst thing you could put on a spinning reel. I thought that was common knowledge amongst fisherman.
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WD40 would have to be the worst thing you could put on a spinning reel. I thought that was common knowledge amongst fisherman.
Hey Rob,
Not so common for me to know nor indeed seemingly for any other GTPopping members as that post has been there for more than a month ;). And I am sure there are many worse things to put on spinning reel.
Never use WD40 on internal parts as it dissolves grease, but for external spot spraying as I described, it does a good job.
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I think Lanox would be a lot better than WD40 as it is a anti-corrosion lubricant with lanolin. Just ask the kiwi's about lanolin. Ask why they have such soft hands and most will tell you ''we get soft hands from grabbing our sheep by the flanks to put their back legs in our gum boots'' and then ask why they put their back legs in they're gum boots. The answer will be ''so they don't run away''
Lanox: http://www.ppc.au.com/access_lanox2d.htm (http://www.ppc.au.com/access_lanox2d.htm)
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I'll put the callipers on the bearings and let you know the size's...Its a very simple handle to maintain - Due to its design its actually difficulty to recognize when the bearing has failed due to its close tolerence on the shaft.
This is a pic of one I did the other day, water gets in primarily through the cap and then sits in there slowly corroding the bearing. As you can see to the point where the retainer has come off and the actual balls come out.
(http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa478/fishmad1/knob.jpg)
This is probably the 3rd or 4th one that I have seen like this...Removing the inner parts of the bearing is easy, the main problem is removing the outer ring which by now has corroded and stuck fast to the knob, had to dremel this one out.
(http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa478/fishmad1/knob2.jpg)
I would suggest when NEW, that you dissasemble the knob by removing the top cap and remove the screw as seen in the pic - this will allow you to remove the knob from the shaft, coat the shaft with grease and replace the knob. Once that is done simply add grease to the inside of the knob and the top of the screw head..put as much as you want. Finally add grease to the thread of the cap to provide a better seal.
Every now and then just remove the cap and check its all ok...The flatter knob they sell has less issues.
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I have just purchased two MC Works knobs so this advice is invaluable Clem - thanks so much. Seems like it would be wise to open the knob and clean it after every just about use.
Do you think it is a design issue with water getting in easily rather than the quality of the bearing used?
One really nice feature of the Studio Ocean Mark knob is two O-rings which really protect both knob bearings from too much salt water. Had no corrosion issues at all with the SOM handle.
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Hi Mark,
The stock bearings are fine, just need to coat the internals to minimise potential damage. Water can actually enter at either end...seals are great but not usually 100% waterproof, especially not over an extended period of time.
If it was me, I would simply remove the cap and check them every so often...add a decent amount of lube and they should be fine. I use a shaped piece of plastic to remove the cap..just so it doesent scratch it.
The good thing with this design, is that if you do have a failure as in the pic the knob will still turn...a little rough but it will get you through a trip.
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Dang it! I just stripped the screw that unlocks the knob :( That screw is sooo fridgin tight!
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Hey Dante,
Can you post a pic of the screw head? might be recoverable....
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Here ya go:
(http://s8.postimage.org/736d0vbjp/DSC03084.jpg)
My camera sucks :(
cheers
D.
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It looks ok..you need to choose a bit that fits the screw head well, dont rush it..I assume the handle is off the reel, spray the inside of the knob with a penertrant and set it aside for a few hours.
When you try again you need to apply significant downward pressure to the driver whilst you turn the handle...may need someone to assist. The downward pressure will minimise the chance of further stripping the screw head. Apply as much pressure as you can until it turns or until it feels like it is going to slip.
You may need to change the bit size depending on the pressure you can apply...the penertrant will help, just take you time with it and it should be fine.
:)
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Thanks mate! ;)
cheers
D.
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Dante
Try low heat like those heat guns. Sometimes I would expect that blue threadlocker might be used to ensure to be sure the knobs wont came loose. Failing that, drill the screw out slowly and use a very small easy-out. Due to the heat of the drill going round helps the easy-out to work better. You may sustain a little damage to the top of the thread but all you do is countersink the hole a little or run a tap /die through it. When you get a new screw for the knob if you are going to pull it apart regulary put some 'never seize' on the thread to make fror easier removal. Hope I havent stated the obvious so have fun. :)
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Thanks fellas!! ;)
Just wanted give the heads up that saltywatertackle carries ceramic bearings for the MC Works handle.
cheers
D.
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yea i just stumbled across the ceramic bearings today and ordered some. hopefully should be good!